So one day I went for a walk...

Another hot day, another case of heat+walking related maladies.  Thankfully I went to see a fantastic landmark which made it worth the pains; Osaka Castle. Fun fact - this tower is actually the keep, the castle itself sits beside it. Not unsurprisingly, Osaka castle is a big tourist draw, and I was thankful to have made my visit during a weekday in the off season for tourists, as the place still had a gaggle being lead by a guide with a flag in every direction I turned. While big crowds can sometimes spoil an outing, I wasn't put off and enjoyed exploring the grounds, which are sprawling for any city, but in Osaka they represent an impressive act of heritage preservation in the face of the dense city encroaching on all sides. I wasn't sure how I would feel about going to see the castle, and was slightly worried that I would feel it was a waste of time.  Having lived in Europe for many years, with a commute that ran directly past a castle while living in Paris, would...

Today was a quiet day spent in the common area of my guest house in Osaka, intentionally avoiding the weekend crowds in the city. I spent much of the day sitting at the table in the common area watching live sumo wrestling on TV and continuing to hash out my revised plan. That isn't to say I spent the entire day inside. I did pop out a few times, mainly to the 7-11 for a cold drink, or as evening closed in, an easy bowl of udon. It was just after 6pm when I tucked into my convenience store udon, which rivaled many restaurant bowls I have eaten in western countries.  I returned to my planning, then headed upstairs to relax in my bed. A few hours later, as I was laying in bed looking at maps and wondering if i had eaten too early and if I would be hungry before bedtime, Takanori came up the stairs to the third floor and called out for me.  I slipped out of my bunk to find my host holding a small dish of tuna sashimi for me. I was by all rights very surprised.  Not...

In passing conversation a few days back Takanori mentioned "it's the biggest boat racing stadium in Osaka". All I could think to myself was ' There is more than one boat racing stadium in the city ?" I won't try to make like I know the first thing about boat racing, but if a city has built more than one place to do it then in my mind it warrants checking out. Setting out for the day I also took the opportunity to stop in at a Don Quijote store to try and find a small day bag, as hauling my entire hiking pack for day trips is just silly. Thankfully Don Quijote stores sell nearly anything you could want, including small backpacks that back be folded up into themselves for when you want to stuff them in a much larger backpack.  Now the only reason for me getting dehydrated while wandering is my own stupidity. But back to the boat races.  I arrived early for the days races, so the place still looked mostly closed and I was a little concerned I would...

The heat persists, but I'm determined not it let it keep me on the sidelines. So this morning I set out to Nara park before the heat was in full force.  From my current home base at Banana Hammock in South Osaka I expected it to be complicated to reach Nara, which is about 45km away, but to my surprise it was a matter of catching a train into town, a quick transfer and I was on my way. As a side note, I have a much better success rate of navigating the Osaka railway system than I do walking through doorways. The top of my head had the lumps to prove that. But back to the point. Nara, which is known for its bowing deer was on my list to see while I'm still in Osaka, and it was a worthwhile way to spend an afternoon. At its height the temperature was 36C, and Nara was a scorcher.  Filled with tourists, the deer are definitely well fed. Once they have had their fill of crackers, much like weary tourists like myself, is was time to retreat to the shade. Between...

Aside from a brief trip out to the the supermarket today to inspect possible food options for the trail, I spent most of my day locked away in my room furiously researching what my new plans might look like. After a long day of Google searches, pdf reading, and mangled translations my brain was frazzled.  I put my phone on my pocket and decided to head out to find a snack. And as it turns out I did not have to go far at all. Leaving my room I headed downstairs to the common area to say hello to my host Takanori, as I had not seen him at all today.  As soon as I rounded the corner he greeted me warmly from the table where he was eating dinner. As I approached down the hallway I could see there was a woman sitting with him and they were eating a home cooked meal. I was invited to sit and eat with them, and I was shocked and thrilled at the generous offer. Before I knew it Takanori had jumped up and  retrieved chopsticks and a dish, which was promptly filled by Takanor...

Yesterday was all kinds of depressing. But it is amazing the difference a good night's sleep can make. I know it will take a week or two for the temperature to start to fall to a safer, more manageable level for me to start the hike again. And while the waiting could be a source of frustration, I am determined to make the best of it. My host Takanori gave me good advice on many things to see and do nearby.  I am extremely happy to be staying in Takanori's guest house, as he has made me feel very welcome, and our conversations have been very enjoyable. Takanori and me! Today the first order of business is to go to the local supermarkets, once they open, and take a good long time really figuring out trail food. I didn't discuss my food selection in a previous post, but it was an added source of consternation during those first two hard days on the trail. The morning of my first hiking day I had stopped at a supermarket near the trailhead to find supplies.  The ...

There aren't many times I get into the shower fully clothed.  But I am getting ahead of myself. This morning I was on top of a mountain just outside Osaka, laying in tent, listening to the forest.  A hundreds of insects sprung to life at the first hint of dawn. What little sleep I had managed in the warm night was over and it was time to return to Osaka to regroup. The humidity meant that none of my clothes had dried from the previous day's hike. Still soaked in sweat, and the unmistakable aroma of ammonia. Funny thing when you drink 5 litres of water and hardly pee, your body has other ways of removing waste. So I put back on my wet, stinky clothes, broke camp, ate a depressing meal, and headed back down the mountain. The last 2.5km of the hike up the mountain to the top where I camped for the night was all stairs.  And I wish I was exaggerating.  It was brutal. Going back down was a welcome change in that regard, but not much easier on tired...

As the sun was rising this morning, and I was breaking camp, the sound of monks chanting morning prayer slowly drifted through the trees from a temple on the next mountain. This sound, slow, calm and steady broke me out of a funk. I feel pretty shit about having to turn back, and I am generally questioning if I am really able to manage the tokai even when the weather cools. But that chanting reminded me of where I was, and the shape of my problem; I am in Japan, and frankly it's amazing to be here. Even if all my planning and good intentions get tossed out the window, I have an incredible opportunity to explore a country I have found fascinating for my entire life. When I get back to Osaka I will keep this in mind.  Whatever plan i land on next, it will be grounded in the fact I have so much in front of me to choose from. After all, how often have I repeated the mantra "fail fast" in my professional life.  I have failed fast, and that's not a bad ...

It is now 5:30am the sun has not yet risen and it is 26C. In this heat I do not think I am capable of carrying enough food and water to take a slow enough pace to continue. Botht weight and the bulk of the additional supplies to support a slower pace to accommodate the heat simply won't fit in my bag and be far to heavy if it did. I had hoped that starting the hike in September would have helped me avoid the summer heat, but it seems I was overly optimistic. I am going to return to Osaka now and regroup. Work out a different plan and then return to the trail once the weather is more favourable. I feel it is too risky to move forward knowing the conditions, possibly stranding myself between Osaka and Kyoto. Not a great start.

It is 7:30pm, It is dark, and I am sitting in my tent in my underwear sweating. My clothing from the day is soaked. It must be 30C in my tent. I've said this before in many posts, but I cannot understate the serious issue the heat here is becoming. During the day it is an intense, ever present challenge, sapping my energy as fast as the hiking. But at night it present a more insidious concern for me. My tent is unexpectedly good at capturing my body heat, of which I produce copious amounts of. Even when I take my rain fly layer off the tent (and risk getting rained on in the night, messing gear up inside the tent) and expose all my vent panels, including the main one stretching the arch of the ceiling, it is still significantly warmer in here than outside.  And I cannot leave my door flap open for more than a moment before my tent is invaded by all manner on insect. Add to that the other issue of my air mattress.  Specially selected for its a design and materials that refl...