So one day I went for a walk...

This morning I strode outside and immediately thought to myself "Oh! It's so cool out!". The morning air felt brisk and different than any of my previous days here.  The first hint of autumn is now in the air. With this morning surprise I quickly checked the weather report, it was 28 degrees Celsius.  This only a few degrees colder than the scorching days I've had even up until yesterday.  These these facts didn't line up in my 'built for winter' brain. Confused, I checked my other weather app only to confirm the report.  Had I become acclimated to heat?  Perhaps.  What far more certain was that the humidity had dropped dramatically overnight.  Where in all the previous days the heat was accompanied by 80-95% humidity, making a 34C day feel like a 42C day, today it was 45% humidity and the difference that made was undeniable. I came back from my morning stroll and was greeted by Takanori.  He too had noticed the change and commented on how...

On my second day in Japan I checked out of the banana hammock and headed north through Osaka. My intention was to see a bit of the city before setting out on my hike the following day. With good intention I headed towards Dotonburi, Osaka's heart for street food and shopping. However, after a morning of walking through intense heat with my pack strapped to my back, by the time I arrived 7km later, I didn't have the slightest interest in exploring, and wanted only for a cold drink on a shady spot. So, today, a little wiser and a lot more cautious, I waited until the sun fell (and also caught the train instead of walking for hours) to take a second crack at Dotonburi. As I mentioned before, Dotonburi is where it's at for street food.  Sure, it's known for the iconic glico running man sign; But from the moment you step foot on to this  strip, densely packed with elaborate signage, it is immediately evident that food is the big draw here. ...

Today was a quiet day spent in the common area of my guest house in Osaka, intentionally avoiding the weekend crowds in the city. I spent much of the day sitting at the table in the common area watching live sumo wrestling on TV and continuing to hash out my revised plan. That isn't to say I spent the entire day inside. I did pop out a few times, mainly to the 7-11 for a cold drink, or as evening closed in, an easy bowl of udon. It was just after 6pm when I tucked into my convenience store udon, which rivaled many restaurant bowls I have eaten in western countries.  I returned to my planning, then headed upstairs to relax in my bed. A few hours later, as I was laying in bed looking at maps and wondering if i had eaten too early and if I would be hungry before bedtime, Takanori came up the stairs to the third floor and called out for me.  I slipped out of my bunk to find my host holding a small dish of tuna sashimi for me. I was by all rights very surprised.  Not...

The heat persists, but I'm determined not it let it keep me on the sidelines. So this morning I set out to Nara park before the heat was in full force.  From my current home base at Banana Hammock in South Osaka I expected it to be complicated to reach Nara, which is about 45km away, but to my surprise it was a matter of catching a train into town, a quick transfer and I was on my way. As a side note, I have a much better success rate of navigating the Osaka railway system than I do walking through doorways. The top of my head had the lumps to prove that. But back to the point. Nara, which is known for its bowing deer was on my list to see while I'm still in Osaka, and it was a worthwhile way to spend an afternoon. At its height the temperature was 36C, and Nara was a scorcher.  Filled with tourists, the deer are definitely well fed. Once they have had their fill of crackers, much like weary tourists like myself, is was time to retreat to the shade. Between...

Aside from a brief trip out to the the supermarket today to inspect possible food options for the trail, I spent most of my day locked away in my room furiously researching what my new plans might look like. After a long day of Google searches, pdf reading, and mangled translations my brain was frazzled.  I put my phone on my pocket and decided to head out to find a snack. And as it turns out I did not have to go far at all. Leaving my room I headed downstairs to the common area to say hello to my host Takanori, as I had not seen him at all today.  As soon as I rounded the corner he greeted me warmly from the table where he was eating dinner. As I approached down the hallway I could see there was a woman sitting with him and they were eating a home cooked meal. I was invited to sit and eat with them, and I was shocked and thrilled at the generous offer. Before I knew it Takanori had jumped up and  retrieved chopsticks and a dish, which was promptly filled by Takanor...

Yesterday was all kinds of depressing. But it is amazing the difference a good night's sleep can make. I know it will take a week or two for the temperature to start to fall to a safer, more manageable level for me to start the hike again. And while the waiting could be a source of frustration, I am determined to make the best of it. My host Takanori gave me good advice on many things to see and do nearby.  I am extremely happy to be staying in Takanori's guest house, as he has made me feel very welcome, and our conversations have been very enjoyable. Takanori and me! Today the first order of business is to go to the local supermarkets, once they open, and take a good long time really figuring out trail food. I didn't discuss my food selection in a previous post, but it was an added source of consternation during those first two hard days on the trail. The morning of my first hiking day I had stopped at a supermarket near the trailhead to find supplies.  The ...

After a day of unbelievable heat, and a walk through the heart of Osaka, I arrived at my hotel for the second night - a traditional style ryokan. The closest I can come to describing this place in western terms is that it is the Japanese version of a spa hotel, complete with built in Onsens. I arrived later in the evening, particularly tired from the heat of the day.  Upon check in I was given a choice of dinner times, then escorted to my room. Much like my first night, this room was also a traditional Japanese style room, but this time a bit more luxurious.  The host explained there my towels for the onsen were, and pointed out my 'samue' which was the preferred attire for dinner and throughout the hotel during my stay. Note the socks - the true ninja turtle experience! With my new wardrobe sorted, I headed down for dinner. I knew only that I should expect a lot of courses, but beyond that I had no idea what was on the menu. Even with the menu I had ...

I've done a bit of reading and preparing for this trip ahead of time. One understandably important topic has been 'how to feed myself'. Much of my reading has lead me to understand that 7-11 in Japan is source of good, high quality food.  Until this morning I was skeptical, as 7-11 food in North America is at best a crapshoot and at worst, well... But this morning I ventured back to the local 7-11 armed with my research and a small recon trip last night after dinner. Here is what I picked out: "Tuna and mayonnaise" "Spicy rice" "Egg salad" Now I will admit that I had seen a lot of talk (read: ecstatic raving) the egg salad sandwiches from Japanese 7-11 from other travellers online.  So where that sandwich would have been an 'avoid at all costs' item back in north America for fear of food poisoning, I looked for it specifically. But more on that later. I am getting ahead of myself. The first item, tuna and mayo, turn...