Day 9: Osaka castle and the frustrating couple
Another hot day, another case of heat+walking related maladies. Thankfully I went to see a fantastic landmark which made it worth the pains; Osaka Castle.
Not unsurprisingly, Osaka castle is a big tourist draw, and I was thankful to have made my visit during a weekday in the off season for tourists, as the place still had a gaggle being lead by a guide with a flag in every direction I turned.
While big crowds can sometimes spoil an outing, I wasn't put off and enjoyed exploring the grounds, which are sprawling for any city, but in Osaka they represent an impressive act of heritage preservation in the face of the dense city encroaching on all sides.
I wasn't sure how I would feel about going to see the castle, and was slightly worried that I would feel it was a waste of time. Having lived in Europe for many years, with a commute that ran directly past a castle while living in Paris, would I be immune? No. I was decidedly not. The grounds commanded respect.
Simply the walk up to the castle from the train station as I passed through the gates and over moats made strong impressions on me. There was no shortage of massive scale and engineering prowess on display.
While my walk from outer bailey through to the inner bailey and finally to the keep was a peaceful (if not sweaty one), it impressed upon me the perils any invader faced trying to sack such an impressive structure. This place was designed not only to be extremely defensible, but also to project the sense of power to anyone looking at it with malice.
But today the grounds only invaders are the tourists, and the locals do a good job of parting them from their yen and sending them away. A far more sophisticated modern defense for this ancient bulwark.
And despite those tourists, the site radiated a truly calm feeling throughout. Perhaps this is a simple contrast to the surrounding city, or perhaps something more.
Before leaving, I took the time to visit a shrine on the grounds to continue my minor pilgrimage.
Most times when I stop to pray at a shrine or temple, I feel strongly like an outsider muddling through something I barely grasp.
Today was different.
I entered the temple grounds I encountered a pair of tourists, she was standing in the center of the pathway in front of the shrine dancing a choreographed dance while he filmed. I was immediately offended, and I suddenly didn't feel like such an outsider. I felt a tiny bit Japanese in that moment.
Before coming to Japan I made sure to do research and do my best to understand the etiquette and expected behaviour when in a shrine or temple, and short of shouting or running around naked, these two couldn't have been more disrespecting of the place in which they were standing.
You shouldn't walk or stand in the center of the pathway when in a shrine or temple, you should dance or fool around. You should be calm and reserved and show respect as you are in the gods' house.
Even if you aren't a believer of a faith, I feel that if you want to explore religious grounds then you should follow the expectations of that faith while there.
As I approached they were wrapping up their YouTube shenanigans, so I passed by in hopes they would leave. I climbed the stairs to the shrine to make my small prayer, determined not to let them ruin my experience.
After, I quietly walked back down the path and over to the office to speak with the attendant and ask for a Goshuin. I was given a number and stood to the side to wait. This gave the YouTubers a chance to come and speak with me. I braced myself as they approached with their "do you speak English?" opener.
They were curious to know what I had just done, and I explained as best I could the ritual and purpose, the required steps and reason. They then asked a question that if I wasn't wearing glasses would have elicited a facepalm. "So, what is this place? Is it like a Buddhist temple or something?"
I took a calm, slow breath and explained that this was actually a Shinto shrine, and that you could tell by the torii gate at the entrance, and that shrines tend to look noticably different from Buddhist temples. I could see this information wash over them, then roll off without being absorbed.
They quickly changed the subject to telling me that they are on a trip around the world. This makes sense. They are obviously makeing one of those "dancing around the world" supercut videos.
My number is called, and I step away to retrieve my Goshuin-cho with a fresh Goshuin, and explain what I have just received. Again, glazed eyes.
Why travel if you have no interest in the culture of the places you visit?
We chat a moment more, and then I excuse myself. I would like to visit more temples in the area, and while I can sense they are keep to explore together for a while, the feeling is not mutual.
I have met travellers on the road who became friends I that I still know today. Today was not one of those days.
But I continued on my way, and was happy to make small visits to other shrines nearby, letting their approach to travel wash from my mind and instead focus again on my own.
Fun fact - this tower is actually the keep, the castle itself sits beside it.
Not unsurprisingly, Osaka castle is a big tourist draw, and I was thankful to have made my visit during a weekday in the off season for tourists, as the place still had a gaggle being lead by a guide with a flag in every direction I turned.
While big crowds can sometimes spoil an outing, I wasn't put off and enjoyed exploring the grounds, which are sprawling for any city, but in Osaka they represent an impressive act of heritage preservation in the face of the dense city encroaching on all sides.
I wasn't sure how I would feel about going to see the castle, and was slightly worried that I would feel it was a waste of time. Having lived in Europe for many years, with a commute that ran directly past a castle while living in Paris, would I be immune? No. I was decidedly not. The grounds commanded respect.
Simply the walk up to the castle from the train station as I passed through the gates and over moats made strong impressions on me. There was no shortage of massive scale and engineering prowess on display.
A wall once the perch of archers keeping out invaders, now it stands to hold the city itself at bay.
While my walk from outer bailey through to the inner bailey and finally to the keep was a peaceful (if not sweaty one), it impressed upon me the perils any invader faced trying to sack such an impressive structure. This place was designed not only to be extremely defensible, but also to project the sense of power to anyone looking at it with malice.
But today the grounds only invaders are the tourists, and the locals do a good job of parting them from their yen and sending them away. A far more sophisticated modern defense for this ancient bulwark.
And despite those tourists, the site radiated a truly calm feeling throughout. Perhaps this is a simple contrast to the surrounding city, or perhaps something more.
Before leaving, I took the time to visit a shrine on the grounds to continue my minor pilgrimage.
Most times when I stop to pray at a shrine or temple, I feel strongly like an outsider muddling through something I barely grasp.
Today was different.
I entered the temple grounds I encountered a pair of tourists, she was standing in the center of the pathway in front of the shrine dancing a choreographed dance while he filmed. I was immediately offended, and I suddenly didn't feel like such an outsider. I felt a tiny bit Japanese in that moment.
Before coming to Japan I made sure to do research and do my best to understand the etiquette and expected behaviour when in a shrine or temple, and short of shouting or running around naked, these two couldn't have been more disrespecting of the place in which they were standing.
You shouldn't walk or stand in the center of the pathway when in a shrine or temple, you should dance or fool around. You should be calm and reserved and show respect as you are in the gods' house.
Even if you aren't a believer of a faith, I feel that if you want to explore religious grounds then you should follow the expectations of that faith while there.
As I approached they were wrapping up their YouTube shenanigans, so I passed by in hopes they would leave. I climbed the stairs to the shrine to make my small prayer, determined not to let them ruin my experience.
After, I quietly walked back down the path and over to the office to speak with the attendant and ask for a Goshuin. I was given a number and stood to the side to wait. This gave the YouTubers a chance to come and speak with me. I braced myself as they approached with their "do you speak English?" opener.
They were curious to know what I had just done, and I explained as best I could the ritual and purpose, the required steps and reason. They then asked a question that if I wasn't wearing glasses would have elicited a facepalm. "So, what is this place? Is it like a Buddhist temple or something?"
I took a calm, slow breath and explained that this was actually a Shinto shrine, and that you could tell by the torii gate at the entrance, and that shrines tend to look noticably different from Buddhist temples. I could see this information wash over them, then roll off without being absorbed.
They quickly changed the subject to telling me that they are on a trip around the world. This makes sense. They are obviously makeing one of those "dancing around the world" supercut videos.
My number is called, and I step away to retrieve my Goshuin-cho with a fresh Goshuin, and explain what I have just received. Again, glazed eyes.
Why travel if you have no interest in the culture of the places you visit?
We chat a moment more, and then I excuse myself. I would like to visit more temples in the area, and while I can sense they are keep to explore together for a while, the feeling is not mutual.
I have met travellers on the road who became friends I that I still know today. Today was not one of those days.
But I continued on my way, and was happy to make small visits to other shrines nearby, letting their approach to travel wash from my mind and instead focus again on my own.
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