So one day I went for a walk...

It is November the twelfth, two thousand and nineteen. I am now 39 years old. Today was a brilliant day, quite literally, as there was hardly a cloud to be seen for miles. It was also my birthday. I stopped looking forward to my birthday a long time ago, as they became ever more depressing affairs. Not because of the fact that I was getting older, that doesn't bother me.  But rather that a life spent moving from place to place in pursuit of a career leaves little in the way of friends nearby to celebrate with.  It's extremely depressing when you have a small group of friends to begin with, then none of them show up to the party.  It's a good reason to shy away from festivities. This year however my birthday happened while on this adventure. Something that was most certainly not a coincidence.  It is significantly harder to be disappointed in a birthday when you find yourself in a place and state like this. ... I have dedicated a not insignificant amount of ...

My time off between hiking is almost always unstructured and unplanned. I enjoy exploring without a specific agenda or schedule, and seeing where the day takes me.  Yesterday was a perfect example if why I enjoy this approach. I set out with only a loose goal of finding a shrine or temple to get another Goshuin for my collection. While I cannot read my Goshuin, I like that they are an embodiment of my trail through Japan, and for those who can read it, a unique proof of my journey. That said, I find locating a shrine or temple that has an attendant or monk to give one, and is open while I am passing by, can be challenging in the smaller cities and more rural towns. Looking at Google maps would tell you that there are hundreds of shrines in any given city. However, many shrines are small and unmanned, a small plot of land with a spot to pray. Sometimes, just a tiny little building for an alter set into a nook.  After spending many previous days wandering blindly to nea...

Another hot day, another case of heat+walking related maladies.  Thankfully I went to see a fantastic landmark which made it worth the pains; Osaka Castle. Fun fact - this tower is actually the keep, the castle itself sits beside it. Not unsurprisingly, Osaka castle is a big tourist draw, and I was thankful to have made my visit during a weekday in the off season for tourists, as the place still had a gaggle being lead by a guide with a flag in every direction I turned. While big crowds can sometimes spoil an outing, I wasn't put off and enjoyed exploring the grounds, which are sprawling for any city, but in Osaka they represent an impressive act of heritage preservation in the face of the dense city encroaching on all sides. I wasn't sure how I would feel about going to see the castle, and was slightly worried that I would feel it was a waste of time.  Having lived in Europe for many years, with a commute that ran directly past a castle while living in Paris, would...

One of my goals on this hike is to visit many temples and shrines along my route. In part to simply observe their beauty and appreciate the culture, but also to participate in a small way by praying and collecting Goshuin (temple stamps). My first stop of many to this end was at Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine, the largest shrine in Osaka. This is where you must cleanse yourself before entering the shrine grounds. Sumiyoshi Taisha is noteworthy not only for it's size, but also it's iconic and magnificent bridge leading up to the main shrine ground: The water is brimming with turtles and koei . Most shrines and temples have a small office where you can purchase a book to collect your Goshuin in, called a Goshuin-cho. Larger shrines and temples will have goshuin-cho that are unique to their grounds. I am very pleased that I was able to explore these grounds, pray here and then receive my first Goshuin! I am looking forward to collecting many more along m...