Day 10: Dotonburi by night

On my second day in Japan I checked out of the banana hammock and headed north through Osaka. My intention was to see a bit of the city before setting out on my hike the following day.

With good intention I headed towards Dotonburi, Osaka's heart for street food and shopping.

However, after a morning of walking through intense heat with my pack strapped to my back, by the time I arrived 7km later, I didn't have the slightest interest in exploring, and wanted only for a cold drink on a shady spot.

So, today, a little wiser and a lot more cautious, I waited until the sun fell (and also caught the train instead of walking for hours) to take a second crack at Dotonburi.

As I mentioned before, Dotonburi is where it's at for street food.  Sure, it's known for the iconic glico running man sign;

But from the moment you step foot on to this  strip, densely packed with elaborate signage, it is immediately evident that food is the big draw here.

I spent a good hour or two just wandering up and down the strip, peering at each of the restaurants and food stands, breathing in the thick air of so many dishes being served, and marveling at the fantaatic signs drawing in hungry patrons. It was intoxicating, especially on an empty stomach.

Finally I settled on my dish to try, a bit of signature Osaka street food: Takoyaki.

In short, Takoyaki is a a ball of cooked batter with a bit of octopus in the middle.  It is also a sure fire way to burn your tongue when you are hungry, as the warm autumn air does nothing to cool these little balls of molten munchies.

You can have all sorts of different toppings on Takoyaki, or eat them plain.  I went with salt and lemon, and it was definitely a good choice.  The bitter and salty tones went very well with the natural flavours. 

As I sat and attempted to patiently wait for my snack to cool I was struck by the makeup of the crowd. 

Dotonburi is definitely a tourist magnet, and there you can find people from all over the world bumping and jostling to get in line for the best nosh. But side by side, and in surprisingly equal numbers, you will find locals as well. From groups of bubbly teenagers to tired salaryman off from a long day at work. 

Despite looking like, and truly being a tourist trap, Dotonburi is one of those rare places that is also just as popular with those that live here as well.  

This, along with the generally courteous nature of Japan in general makes it a very vibrant and alive place to visit, and not just an elaborate facade meant to fleece tourists.