Day 14: The autumn harvest festival
Despite the weather returning to form and it feeling like the middle of summer again today, I attend an autumn harvest festival.
Takanori was kind enough to offer to take me to this festival, as it took place near his home. Without his suggestion I would never have known of this festival, let alone found my way to it.
For today's trip Takanori, Pak (a Korean guest at the Banana Hammock) and myself all woke up early to make the journey south. It was a short walk to the train, then a ride on a local train that took us the rest of the way.
As we arrived, things were already well under way, and thousands of people were all throughout the grounds of the shine.
The shrine grounds had additions for the festival in the way of large "parking spots" built from scaffolding like tubing and festooned with decorations that related to each town involved, marking which spot each shrine would eventually end up.
As Takanori explained to me the purpose of this festival is for each of the 9 surrounding towns give thanks for the autumn harvest. This is done by each town carrying a portable shrine from their town to the shrine grounds, marching it around, up and down the stairs and all through the grounds while chanting and drumming.
I would come to learn that there was not 9 portable shrines to arrive, but 18, as each town sends both a large shrine carried by 80-100 adults as well as a smaller shrine carried by children.
All of the children's shrines were brought through the grounds in a parade fashion, one after the other. The energy was constant and tremendous as all the group's loudly chanted as they moved their shrines.
But the festival was one of length. While the children's shrines all came through in a group, the larger portable shrines would come one at a time, with each given an hour to be carried around the grounds.
After the first adult shrine had been delivered to it's parking spot, the shrine for Takanori's town and the house of the festival, we were lucky enough to cross paths with a friend of Takanori's; one of the shrine carriers.
We were introduced and immediately his friend took off his uniform jacket and said "you must try this on" and I did not hesitate to take him up on the offer.
Takanori told me that this festival was one of the biggest in South Osaka, and could possibly see up to 100,000 people, and the crowds continued to swell as the afternoon wore on. It didn't seem implausible that the crowd could infact reach such a size. Though I had no idea where they would all go, as the place was already very full no matter what direction you turned.
Between shrines we took a break and Takanori brought us to his home, which turned out to be just around the corner from the shrine. I was able to meet his family and trade a few bits of English with his children.
After cooling down we returned to the festival, and I explored the grounds in search of food. Normally shrines are very minimalist and clutter free, but today the grounds were packed with the sorts of food and game stands you might find at any western fair, albeit the food was Japanese and much better.
I would stay for a few hours to watch a few more of the adult shrines marched around. Despite little understanding of the meaning, the energy of the event was contagious. I found myself excited for each step of a new shrines progression around the grounds.
But after a few hours, that lack of understanding, that lack of any skin in the game that ultimately comes with being a foreigner, caught up to me. Knowing that the crowds would only continue to grow, and that I could expect much of the same well into the evening I decided to retreat back to Banana Hammock and plan out my last adventure before I leave Osaka; a day trip and hike up Mount Koya.
But more on that tomorrow.
Takanori was kind enough to offer to take me to this festival, as it took place near his home. Without his suggestion I would never have known of this festival, let alone found my way to it.
For today's trip Takanori, Pak (a Korean guest at the Banana Hammock) and myself all woke up early to make the journey south. It was a short walk to the train, then a ride on a local train that took us the rest of the way.
Left to right: Pak, Takanori and myself standing at the bottom of the stairs leading to the Mozuhachimangu shrine.
As we arrived, things were already well under way, and thousands of people were all throughout the grounds of the shine.
The shrine grounds had additions for the festival in the way of large "parking spots" built from scaffolding like tubing and festooned with decorations that related to each town involved, marking which spot each shrine would eventually end up.
Various parking spots.
As Takanori explained to me the purpose of this festival is for each of the 9 surrounding towns give thanks for the autumn harvest. This is done by each town carrying a portable shrine from their town to the shrine grounds, marching it around, up and down the stairs and all through the grounds while chanting and drumming.
I would come to learn that there was not 9 portable shrines to arrive, but 18, as each town sends both a large shrine carried by 80-100 adults as well as a smaller shrine carried by children.
One of the smaller shrines carried by children being taken up the stairs.
All of the children's shrines were brought through the grounds in a parade fashion, one after the other. The energy was constant and tremendous as all the group's loudly chanted as they moved their shrines.
But the festival was one of length. While the children's shrines all came through in a group, the larger portable shrines would come one at a time, with each given an hour to be carried around the grounds.
After the first adult shrine had been delivered to it's parking spot, the shrine for Takanori's town and the house of the festival, we were lucky enough to cross paths with a friend of Takanori's; one of the shrine carriers.
We were introduced and immediately his friend took off his uniform jacket and said "you must try this on" and I did not hesitate to take him up on the offer.
All the cool parts of being a shrine carrier without the actually carrying.
Takanori told me that this festival was one of the biggest in South Osaka, and could possibly see up to 100,000 people, and the crowds continued to swell as the afternoon wore on. It didn't seem implausible that the crowd could infact reach such a size. Though I had no idea where they would all go, as the place was already very full no matter what direction you turned.
Between shrines we took a break and Takanori brought us to his home, which turned out to be just around the corner from the shrine. I was able to meet his family and trade a few bits of English with his children.
After cooling down we returned to the festival, and I explored the grounds in search of food. Normally shrines are very minimalist and clutter free, but today the grounds were packed with the sorts of food and game stands you might find at any western fair, albeit the food was Japanese and much better.
I would stay for a few hours to watch a few more of the adult shrines marched around. Despite little understanding of the meaning, the energy of the event was contagious. I found myself excited for each step of a new shrines progression around the grounds.
But after a few hours, that lack of understanding, that lack of any skin in the game that ultimately comes with being a foreigner, caught up to me. Knowing that the crowds would only continue to grow, and that I could expect much of the same well into the evening I decided to retreat back to Banana Hammock and plan out my last adventure before I leave Osaka; a day trip and hike up Mount Koya.
But more on that tomorrow.
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